As we were coasting through the mountains in between layers of dense fog the voice on the end of the line said, “Look for the blue witch. There is only one.” We were approaching Cudillero, located in the autonomous region of Asturias, and it was nearly midnight. We called our host to ask where to park once we arrived. The winding road down to the small fishing village was spooky and steep. We rounded the last corner and the sparkling seaside village seemed to glow.
We started looking for the blue witch, but we couldn’t find her. After a few passes by the one and only parking area, I saw a blue bridge. Did she say “blue bridge”?! She had’t said “witch” after all.
- S L E E P
Apartamentos Casa del Pintor
This was our view!
We ventured out a couple of times a day but really enjoyed our studio apartment with kitchen. Friday mornings the village is host to a small market on the main road. We purchased fresh fruits and vegetables to make meals in our rental.
Perched in the window of a former painter’s studio, I became one with the light and took hundreds of photos throughout the day as I watched it change.
Only a subtle difference but that was my meditation each day and I’ve rarely felt so peaceful.
The sunsets were hours long.
We chose to stay at Casa del Pintor for the views but were totally wowed by the hospitality. Hana’s recommendations for food were spot on. Without her help our stay wouldn’t have been as fluid and relaxing. Her warm welcome when we arrived after dark and Ampa’s patience with us each day as we slowly emerged from our room, finally ready for housekeeping, both made an impression. We felt at home.
After enjoying many properties before we arrived in Cudillero, it was lovely to have a soap dish! The attention to detail did not go unnoticed. I love to purchase soap when I travel and use it along the way. Everything I looked for was in the apartment. I needed scissors. I found scissors. Little things like that were thought out and when I mentioned it to Hana, she said she stayed in the apartments before opening the business. It shows! Very thoughtful.
I really settled in and we considered altering our plans to stay a few days longer, but there are only three apartments and they were all booked. Summer is high season, although it never felt full of tourists.
Like I mentioned in my film post, I never wanted to leave. So much so that we did a little real estate investigating.
No solid leads, but enough fuel to keep the dream going. Yes, I dream of moving to Spain and this drive along its northern coast was part of our journey to find a place that calls to us.
Cudillero calls.
E A T
This was the first restaurant we tried in Cudillero, on Hana’s suggestion, and we loved it. We happily ate there again a couple of days later during a rainstorm.
It’s rare to see Arroz Negro on a menu in the United States, let alone Texas, so when I saw it on the menu at El Faro, I had to get it. I kept thinking, “It’s the real deal!” So good. The portion easily serves two.
Ok, I knew if sardines were prepared just right that I’d been known to like them, but DAMN, the sardines at El Faro were the best I’ve ever had in my life and not just by a little bit. Fresh fresh fresh! I don’t think I can ever eat them again, unless it’s in a fishing village on the coast of northern Spain.
We passed this fishmonger going in and out of restaurants with fresh seafood deliveries. He was a busy man, daily.
If you know me or read this blog, you know I love boquerones (white anchovies). The plate of boquerones at Opera was the best I’ve ever had. And…I’VE HAD MANY PLATES. I’ve just never had them that fresh and it makes a big difference.
I ate my weight in octopus while in Spain and every bite I had in Cudillero was tops.
- E S P R E S S O
Confitería La Pixueta – Ovetus
There’s really nothing about this little coffee and sweets shop on the internet. If you google the name you will find the address. It’s the best espresso on Plaza Marina.
- W H A T T O D O
Parroquia de San Pedro
Visit this sixteenth century Gothic church that is known for its semicircular shape. It’s free to go inside.
Go for a walk. It’s what the locals do.
With steep winding walkways, walking is the only way to get anywhere in the old town. Visitors must park their cars in the area before the blue bridge and locals are only able to drive on a couple of streets. Exercise is built into the culture and not dealing with cars was delightful.
Fish drying outside a home.
May your journey be your muse,
Rachel
Want to know what we were listening to on that foggy drive into Cudillero? Check out my travel tracks here!
Or listen in the player below!
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